Contents:
- 1. Light intensity
- 1. a. Light spectrum
- 2. Temperature, humidity and airflow
- 2. a. Optimal airflow ensures the best bud density
- 3. Nutrients
- 3. a. Macronutrients
- 3. b. Micronutrients
- 3. c. Ph level
- 3. d. Synthetic nutrients
- 3. e. Organic nutrients
- 3. f. Density boosting additives and supplements
- 4. Plant training
- 4. a. Low-stress training
- 4. b. High-stress training
- 5. Harvesting at the right time
- 5. a. Stigmas
- 5. b. Yellowing leaves
- 5. c. State of the trichomes
- 6. The right genetics
- 6. a. Indica-dominant vs sativa-dominant
- 6. b. Bud limits
- 7. How to grow big buds?
- 8. In conclusion
There are many variables that can determine how fat and trichome-rich your nugs will be, so in this article, we explain how to grow bigger buds during flower, what to consider, and how to avoid smaller low-producing popcorn buds.
Learn best tips on how to grow huge Cannabis flowers from Sebastian Good.
The quality of your flowers depends on nutrients, light, and growing conditions so make sure you have everything on point to get denser and chunkier buds.
Table of Contents
- 1. Light intensity
- 2. Temperature, humidity and Airflow
- 3. Nutrients
- 4. Plant training
- 5. Harvesting at the right time
- 6. The right genetics
- 7. How to grow big buds?
- 8. In Conclusion
- FAQs
- Why are my buds not fattening up?
- How can I make my buds bigger and fuller?
- Why are my buds light and airy?
- What week Do buds fatten the most?
- How do you get big colas?
- What should my buds look like at 5 weeks?
- Does molasses add weight to bud?
- What is the best bud hardener?
- What week of flower Do buds grow the most?
- What happens at 7 weeks of flowering?
- Is it OK to trim fan leaves during flowering?
- What week Do buds put on the most weight?
- How do I make my buds fatter?
- What happens if you wait too long to harvest?
- Why are my buds taking forever to mature? | Grow Weed Easy
- How to Avoid Airy And Loose Marijuana Buds
- Buds Not Filling Out Proper – THCFarmer
- Fattening Up Your Buds For Your Best Harvest Yet
- Why Aren't My Buds Getting Bigger? – WeedMania420
- Some buds aren't filling in – Rollitup
- How To Prevent Popcorn Buds From Forming On Your …
- What To Do When Your Indoor Cannabis Won't Flower
1. Light intensity
Light is the most important factor when trying to get denser cannabis flowers because lights help cannabis plants produce sugars through the photosynthesis process which helps them grow, just have in mind that not any light will do, weed needs an optimal light intensity to produce big fat buds.
The proper light intensity is vital if you want your marijuana plants to thrive and produce the biggest buds.
Outdoor growers don’t have to worry that much because they’re growing under the sun which is the best light possible for plants, obviously, the number of light hours the plants get outdoors will influence the quality but as long as you are growing in the outdoor season you’ll be fine.
| Optimal wattage to get denser flowers | ||
|---|---|---|
| Number of plants | HPS wattage | LED wattage |
| 1 | 100w | 120w |
| 2 | 250w | 200w |
| 4 | 400w | 280w |
| 6 | 600w | 350w |
Indoor growers have to choose between different light fixtures, nowadays you can easily find light bulbs and LEDs suited for every grow tent and grower, each one with its pros and cons so that’s why you should research a lot before buying expensive equipment. Either way, professional indoor growers provide approximately 1000w per m2 to have the best results, obviously, not all home growers can afford this but make sure you provide at least 100w per plant to increase bud density.
Light spectrum
Not only the light intensity but also the light spectrum emitted by your light will affect how dense your buds get, each wavelength in the light spectrum plays an important role in a cannabis plant’s growth process.
As you may know, light bulbs (like MH and HPS) don’t emit a full-spectrum, while MH emits the blue spectrum, HPS emit the red spectrum that’s why Metal halide bulbs are used in the vegetative stage while HPS bulbs are used in the flowering stage.
LEDs are the best way to provide a full spectrum for your plants to grow under.
Now with LEDs you don’t have this problem because most LEDs emit almost the whole spectrum, which is crucial to harvest denser flowers because each wavelength is responsible for a certain aspect of a plant’s growth.
- Green/blue wavelength (490-570nm)
These wavelengths are critical in the vegetative stage because growth and water absorption are boosted.
- Yellow wavelength (570-585nm)
These wavelengths encourage plants to stretch and start budding, plants use them to encourage photoreceptors to absorb more light and get denser buds, increasing yields.
- Red wavelength (520-720nm)
These wavelengths signal to your marijuana plant that autumn is near and this not only increases resin production but also helps increase bud size.
Frequently Asked Questions
How much light do I need to grow fat buds?
This can vary a bit depending on the type of light and brand but in general, you should provide a minimum of 75w per plant to get good results.
Will I grow bigger buds with LEDs?
It is possible to grow bigger buds with top-notch LEDs but you can have similar results with light bulbs, it’s just a matter of knowing how to use and adapt your grow space to the different types of lighting.
2. Temperature, humidity and Airflow
The growing conditions also have a huge influence on bud density, cannabis plants thrive between 18-26°C and in relative humidity that starts at 70% and slowly decreases until it reaches around 45% during the last weeks of flowering.
| Optimal Humidity and temperature to get denser flowers | ||||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Plant stage | Week | Day Temp. | Night Temp. | Relative humidity |
| 1 | 22-28°C | 18-22°C | 70% | |
| 2 | 22-28°C | 18-22°C | 70% | |
| Vegetative | 3 | 22-28°C | 18-22°C | 65% |
| 4 | 22-28°C | 18-22°C | 65% | |
| Pre-flowering | 5 | 20-26°C | 20-26°C | 60% |
| 1st half of flowering | 6 | 20-26°C | 20-26°C | 55% |
| 7 | 20-26°C | 20-26°C | 50% | |
| 2nd half of flowering | 8 | 18-24°C | 17-20°C | 50% |
| 9 | 18-24°C | 17-20°C | 45% | |
| 10 | 18-24°C | 17-20°C | 40% | |
If you fail to maintain optimal conditions, the buds will end up airy just like popcorn buds so it’s essential you ensure the growing conditions are constant and, if you need to, use equipment such as fans, heaters, or AC units to be able to do so. Unlike indoor growers, outdoor growers have less control over the conditions so it’s essential you plan when you’re germinating your seeds to have the best conditions possible, and if needed, build a greenhouse or if you already have a greenhouse, install fans in it.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do the growing conditions affect cannabis plants?
The temperature and humidity can affect how your plant photosynthesizes and produces sugars, so in less-than-ideal conditions, your plant may grow slower or grow less and this can make it harder to get big buds.
Optimal Airflow Ensures the Best Bud Density
In nature, cannabis is a wind-pollinated plant. This means that the plant is genetically disposed to expend more energy on budding sites that are exposed to optimal airflow and light. There are a couple of ways that we, as cultivators, can ensure that the plant has the best chance of producing dense, juicy nuggets by simply maximizing the air exchange in the canopy and the entire grow area. If you are growing outdoors this may be as simple as spacing your plants correctly and removing some of the fan leaves to allow for better airflow. You can also help your outdoor grow by making sure the crop is placed in an area that will receive a high amount of natural wind. This, along with other external stimuli, will also help the overall strength of your plants and allows the branches to grow thick enough to support those huge buds. It is just like us going to the gym and lifting weights. The more we strain our muscles, the bigger they grow – the same goes for cannabis plants moving in the wind.
When growing weed indoors, we want to try and replicate the outdoor environment in certain ways. Along with lighting, airflow is hugely important. There are two main types of airflow that we want to create in any growing space:
Air exchange exhaust system
A constant supply of fresh air is one of the most important aspects to consider when designing any grow space. For air exchange, you want to have the incoming vent placed near the bottom for the grow area and the outgoing near the top. This is because heat rises, so this design help with keeping the grow room nice and cool. Exhaust fans dome with a CFM (cubic feet per minute) rating. By multiplying the height, width, and length dimensions of your grow room, you will be able to easily calculate the exhaust fan requirements. If possible, it is great to have the fresh air circulated into your grow space every 1–3 minutes.
Canopy airflow
The easiest and most budget-friendly option for creating airflow within the canopy is by placing a few small (depending on the size of your grow room) oscillating fans aimed at the canopy itself. You want to grab fans that have a few speed settings, as a nice strong breeze is great for mature plants, but maybe too forceful for developing seedlings. If the only option at your disposal is too strong, face it away from the canopy. As long as it is at canopy height then the air will still be exchanged. You also want to place the fans so the breeze is coming from a range of different directions. If you can work out how to set a few up so there is one aimed from above, one from below, and one or two at canopy level then do so. If you only have space for one in your grow area then so be it. One is better than none!
This setup will not only help the buds fatten right up but also help you control the canopy temp and humidity, and fight against mold and pest issues.
3. Nutrients
The nutrients make a huge difference, even though you may be able to harvest buds without feeding your plants, providing the right minerals at the proper ratio will result in denser flowers. Marijuana plants need different nutrients that are divided into macronutrients and micronutrients which should be given at the correct time, and to know exactly how much and when to provide them you need to know your plant’s life cycle, so by knowing approximately how long your auto will grow for and how many weeks of flowering before harvest you’ll get an idea of what to give and when.
For example, if you are growing an autoflower that takes around 10 weeks from seed to harvest you’ll know that it will take approximately 4-5 weeks for your plant to vegetate and another 5-6 for it to flower, knowing this you’ll be able to plan ahead and calculate the nutrient doses because, as you may know, you should start with a lower dose and increase it gradually when growing autoflowers.
Macronutrients
Macronutrients are the widely known NPK and are the minerals cannabis plants use the most, NPK refers to Nitrogen, Phosphorus, and Potassium. Nitrogen is responsible for plant growth in the vegetative stage, Phosphorus helps in photosynthesis, and Potassium is essential in bud and terpene production so it’s essential you provide these nutrients if you want to have good results.
NPK are the main nutrients your weed needs to grow.
Micronutrients
Micronutrients are minerals used in lower quantities but they’re also essential for a cannabis plant’s growth, failing to provide them will also result in signs of deficiencies even though they’re needed 10x less than macronutrients. These mainly trace elements such as Boron, Copper, Calcium, and Magnesium among others, and all of them play a role in helping your plant achieve the needed structure and preparing it to successfully go through flowering.
Now, plants depend on the pH level to be able to absorb nutrients properly so it’s essential you check and adjust it but it’s vital that you provide just what your plants need, nothing less, nothing more. It’s recommended you start with a lower dose than recommended because you may end up burning your plants, which will have the opposite effect than what you were looking for; Instead of denser buds, your plant will show symptoms of deficiencies.
| Light nutrient solution cannabis feeding schedule | ||
|---|---|---|
| Week | Stage | Nutrients |
| 1 | Seedling | Plain water |
| 2 | Vegetative | ¼ grow nutrients |
| 3 | Vegetative | ½ grow nutrients |
| 4 | Vegetative | Full dose grow nutrients |
| 5 | Pre-flowering | ⅛ grow + ¼ bloom |
| 6 | Flowering | ½ bloom nutrients |
| 7 | Flowering | Full dose bloom nutrients |
| 8 | Flowering & ripening | ⅛ bloom |
| 9 | Ripening & harvest | Plain water |
To avoid this, you should feed your plants with a 2-1-3 ratio in the vegetative stage and 1-2-3 in the flowering, this means you have to feed more nitrogen while your plants are growing and more phosphorus and potassium when the flowers are developing. Just have in mind that different nutrient brands have different feeding schedules and there are several different fertilizers for cannabis which can be quite different.
pH level
Checking and adjusting the pH level is essential if you really want to harvest great buds, pH ranges from 1 to 14 and is a way to measure how alkaline or acidic a liquid solution is. Pure water has a neutral pH of 7, depending on the medium you’re growing in, the pH should be a bit lower but shouldn’t differ too much, for example, in soil the pH should range between 6.0-7.0, and in soilless medium (such as coco, clay pellets or hydro) should range between 5.5-6.5.
| PH range for cannabis in different mediums | |
|---|---|
| Medium | pH range |
|
Soil |
6.0-7.0 |
|
Hydro and soilless (like coco or clay pellets) |
5.5-6.5 |
Maintaining these pH levels is essential if you want your plants to absorb nutrients properly because marijuana plants depend on certain pH levels to absorb nutrients properly.
Synthetic nutrients
Synthetic nutrients are the most common cannabis fertilizers available, these bottled nutrients contain salts that feed your plant’s roots directly. This type of feeding is usually simpler and cheaper than organic nutrients but as you may know by now because you’re feeding the roots directly it’s super easy to overfeed and may bring more deficiencies if you haven’t grown weed before.
Organic nutrients
Organic nutrients, unlike synthetic nutrients, consist of maintaining a healthy medium that is filled with beneficial microorganisms that have a symbiotic relationship with your marijuana plants.
How organic nutrients work.
Organic feeding is usually more expensive but there are several ways to make your own super soil, KNF, or composting at home where you can customize it to your own needs. This way, you are not feeding the roots directly, but making the nutrients available in the medium for the microorganisms to break them down and making it easier for your plants to absorb them when they want and need to, decreasing the chances of overfeeding and other deficiencies.
Frequently Asked Questions
Will flower enhancers or flower boosters give me bigger buds?
They probably won’t hurt your plant when used correctly but have in mind that most flower boosters just provide phosphorus and potassium which any good-quality fertilizer designed for the flowering stage will too.
How can I identify an NPK deficiency or excess?
| Minerals | Excess | Deficiency |
|---|---|---|
| Nitrogen |
Leaves get greener, weak stems and foliage, less water uptake. |
Leaves turn yellow, small leaves and leaves curl or drop. |
| Phosphorus | Bladed leaves, burned tips, and spots on leaves. | Purple stems, brown spots on leaves, and slow growth. |
| Potassium | Burned tips, spots on leaves, and burned tips. | Weak stems and pale leaves, leaves with rusty color and slow flowering. |
Which nutrients grow bigger buds?
Unfortunately, nutrients alone won’t be enough to get you big buds of weed. To grow bigger buds you will need the right combination of good-quality nutrients, enough light, and the proper growing conditions. If you’re already providing these elements and feel like you can still improve your harvest you should take a look at plant training techniques.
Density Boosting Additives and Supplements
Once you have your feed schedule of the base nutrients dialed in it’s time to think about cannabis supplements. While the jury is still out in terms of hard scientific facts, most experienced cannabis growers agree that using some form of bloom supplementation will result in better quality buds and increased yields. These supplements usually contain a mix of vitamins, humic acids, trace minerals, amino acids, and complex carbohydrates. Most important of all though is Phosphorous (P), one of the three main macros. This nutrient is responsible for energy transportation, which has a huge impact on bud development. Look for a booster than contains these.
Almost every single cannabis nutrient company produces a bloom booster, but here is a couple of the most popular ones preferred by growers.
- Cannabiogen Delta 9
- Advanced Nutrients Bud Ignitor
- Grotek Blossom Blaster
- Top Crop Big One
- CANNABOOST by Canna
Another option favored by many growers, and a much more wallet-friendly option, is to use unsulphured blackstrap molasses. This wonder product contains a bunch of complex sugars, and also a range of nutrients that aid in plant development and soil health. Along with the carbs it contains iron, selenium, copper, magnesium, and calcium which all help boost the bud development. There are 2 main accepted ways to implement blackstrap molasses into your feeding schedule.
- It can be added to the feedwater at a rate of 5 ml per liter of water twice a week during the vegetative growth period, and 8 to 10 ml per liter during the flowering stage as potassium demands increase.
- You can use blackstrap molasses as a foliar spray. Add half a teaspoon to one liter of lukewarm into a spray bottle, give it a good shake, and apply liberally to the entire plant. Once every 10 to 14 days will be more than sufficient. Molasses foliar spray also works fantastically as an effective pest repellant and will help in the treatment of infestations. This can be mixed with some neem oil and insecticidal soap to boost the effectiveness.
4. Plant training
Cannabis plants usually grow one main cola and several side branches, depending on your grow space it may not be a problem but this growth pattern isn’t ideal for a lot of growers that want to make the most out of their equipment. Plant training techniques such as LST and HST can be used to re-shape how a marijuana plant grows, this way growers can open up the branches and canopy, and when done correctly the flower sites will receive more light and airflow, resulting in denser flowers and ultimately better yields.
Low-stress training
Low-stress training (aka LST) are plant training methods that do not mutilate your plants, the idea behind this technique is to bend the branches and stem horizontally to improve light usage which results in bigger buds and better yields.
LST allows you to shape your cannabis plant with as minimal stress as possible!
These low-stress techniques include the tie-down method, SCRoG, and SoG which are different methods that are better suited in different scenarios but end up having the same results.
LST technique explained under 1 minute.
As you can see in the video above, our grower not only tied the branches but also topped his autoflower. When done properly, you will be able to reach the desired plant structure that can improve yields and the overall quality of your harvest.
High-stress training
High-stress training (aka HST) are plant training methods that consist of mutilating your cannabis plants, techniques like Topping or Fimming consist of cutting your plant in a certain way, ending up with results similar to what LST offers but taking less time while also being more stressful to your plants. Although it’s not recommended to perform HST on autoflowers if you’re not experienced enough, you can get away with it and have great results, also, it’s common among growers to perform LST in combination with HST to get the results you desire.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the basic difference between low-stress and high-stress training?
If you’re looking to get bigger buds both will have similar results, the main difference being that low-stress training consists of shaping your plant little by little without mutilating it while high-stress training consists of mutilating your cannabis plant to shape your plant.
Is high-stress training better than low-stress training?
No, both are good training techniques and will result in similar results, it’s just a matter of knowing how to apply them properly and when to do it.
5. Harvesting at the right time
Beginner growers tend to harvest sooner either because they are anxious and want to smoke their buds or simply don’t know when the right time to harvest is. As you may know, buds develop really fast during flowering and even just a couple of days may make a big difference in the quality of your flowers.
Stigmas
Stigmas (pistils) are the white hairs that you start seeing in the pre-flowering stage, these hairs come out of the calyxes and when marijuana plants are getting ready to get harvested, these hairs will start browning and wilting.
Brown pistils all over a cannabis bud.
Have in mind that some in some strains these hairs start browning earlier and in others, the majority doesn’t even brown so you should not harvest based just on the stigmas.
Yellowing leaves
At the end of your growing cycle, you will see the big fan leaves yellowing, this could be a big problem if it happens in other stages but when nearing harvest it’s completely normal and a sign that your plant is getting ready to be harvested.
State of the trichomes
Apart from the other factors that will help you know when the right time to chop down your plant, the standard practice is to look at the state of the trichomes so you shouldn’t harvest your plants based on the other factors until you take a look at the trichomes.
The state of the trichomes are the standard practice to know when to harvest.
Depending on the type of effect you prefer, you shouldn’t harvest unless most of the trichomes are cloudy (cerebral effect) or amber (corporal effect), harvesting at just the right time will result in not only denser flowers but also a more potent effect so remember that being patient is essential.
Frequently Asked Questions
What does flushing do?
Flushing removes the nutrient build-up in the medium and roots, this way your plant won’t absorb more minerals and will finish consuming the nutrients stored in it before harvesting, providing better tasting buds without that harsh smoke that some flowers have.
Why do trichomes change color?
Trichomes do not change color, what happens is that the cannabinoids react to temperature and humidity, so THC will turn into CBN in oxidizing environments. This is why you need to control the relative humidity, and sometimes oxygen levels when curing cannabis buds.
6. The right genetics
Genetics is a crucial factor if you are looking to grow dense buds, nowadays there are lots of strains that have different characteristics, these characteristics influence the type of effect, aroma, flavor, plant structure, and bud structure also.
Indica vs Sativa bud structure.
Some strains (usually Sativa-dominant) produce airy and fluffy buds but this doesn’t mean they’re not strong, lighter buds are a characteristic of Sativa strains while Indicas produce thicker and denser flowers. So have in mind that some strains won’t produce dense flowers even in optimal conditions but it doesn’t mean they lack quality.
it’s so sweet and a bit zesty and refreshing. I love tasting it and guessing all those subtle notes, especially when I’m already a bit high.
Ginocchio.
Verified customer
Reviewed 20 June
Luckily, you can find hybrids that contain a fine genetic mix and offer the best of both worlds, like our Purple Lemonade Auto which is a 30% Sativa / 70% Indica, resulting in super long and dense buds.
Indica-dominant vs Sativa-dominant
Cannabis plants have nodes along their stems, these nodes are where the leaves grow from and are where buds form. This is the same for all marijuana plants but Indica-dominant strains tend to have shorter internodal spaces while Sativa-dominant has longer internodal spaces so it may end up affecting the shape and density of flowers.
Hybrids offer the best of both worlds, there surely is a strain that better suits you.
Even in the same conditions, cannabis Indica flowers usually grow denser and in clusters around the nodes of the stem and branches with short internodal spaces between them. Now, Sativa buds usually grow larger than Indica buds but instead of the nodes being all together, they develop along the whole branch so the buds tend to weigh less due to their lower density.
Bud limits
As said above, some strains have certain characteristics that will not change even in optimal conditions. This means that even if you have the best-growing tent in the world, an Indica strain will have denser buds than a Sativa strain in the same conditions and you won’t be able to change that even if you provide the best light fixture, growing conditions, and nutrients.
If your buds don’t get denser you should look for other genetics that will give you the result you desire.
That’s why you should choose the strains carefully, first have in mind what your grow tent can handle, and, second, choose what you prefer. We recommend going for balanced hybrids because they will provide the best of both worlds when talking about effect, density, flavor, and yields.
Frequently Asked Questions
Are autoflowers the same as fast-flowering strains?
No, autoflowers don’t depend on a light cycle to trigger flowering, so you can grow them from seed to harvest under 18/6 while quick-flowering strains are photoperiodic so you still have to provide 18/6 for veg and 12/12 for flowering but they will flower faster than regular photoperiodics.
How long will it take for my auto to start growing buds?
This depends on the genetics and phenotype you get but most autoflowers will start flowering 4-5 weeks from seed.
7. How to grow big buds?
If you’re following everything said above and you’re still getting popcorn buds, here are some extra tips to help you get the bud density you desire.
Feed properly during the flowering stage
Cannabis plants are usually more forgiving in the vegetative stage, you can feed slightly more or less and it won’t matter that much because your plants will still grow green and healthy, obviously, feeding a lot more will stress your plant but you have a minimal margin for error. Once you’re in the flowering stage and the buds are developing things change, when your cannabis plants are blooming you have to be more careful because the nutrients you provide will affect the quality and density of the buds.
Tips to get the biggest buds!
Avoid too much nitrogen when the flowers are forming
Watering with high levels of nitrogen in the vegetative stage will cause nutrient burn which will make the leaves yellow and in more serious cases, dry and die but these symptoms are basically cosmetic and won’t affect your flowers because they haven’t started forming yet. Now, in the flowering stage giving too much Nitrogen can affect bud development and end up affecting their density, luckily for you, Nitrogen toxicity is super easy to fix, just lower the dose and your plant will recover.
Don’t ignore nutrient deficiencies
As you may know, flowering cannabis plants need more Phosphorus, Potassium, and less Nitrogen, so when the buds are forming you should feed Bloom nutrients at the right amount, feeding properly will ensure your buds dense up properly.
8. In Conclusion
Some cannabis cultivars are bigger yielding than others, that’s the case of Sativa-dominant hybrids that grow stacked flowers and will naturally produce big yields. Indica-dominant also are good candidates because most hybrids end up being heavy feeders and are well known for producing big fat buds.
So if you were wondering how to increase cannabis yield, you need to know that there is a balancing act when it comes to boosting your plants during flowering, adding too much nutrient during flowering can cause plants to burn, show deficiencies, and the worst case being ruining your yields.
If you’re an experienced grower feel free to leave your tips and tricks to help beginner growers get bigger buds!
External References:
- Improving Cannabis Bud Quality and Yield with Subcanopy Lighting. HortScience. – Hawley, Dave & Graham, Thomas & Stasiak, Michael & Dixon, Mike. (2018).
- Apical bud removal increased seed yield in hemp ( Cannabis sativa L.). – Ačko, Darja & Flajšman, Marko & Trdan, Stanislav. (2019).
FAQs
Why are my buds not fattening up?
Plant Has Stopped ?Living? If you’ve burned off or otherwise lost all your leaves and sugar leaves, take the plant down. Your buds won’t fatten up without any green on the plant, but buds may start to get discolored or otherwise damaged. No Green Leaves Left ? Ready to Harvest!
How can I make my buds bigger and fuller?
You want to use top-shelf genetics if you want massive buds. You can grow various strains from either clones or seeds. Use bloom boosters ? When you give your plant a proven bloom booster, you’re giving it extra ?supplements? that help it grow bigger, denser, heavier and more potent buds
Why are my buds light and airy?
?? Airy, loose buds are caused by either high temperature during their growth period, lack of light or lack of nutrients. INDOORS: High temperature in the garden space or just near the light causes the buds to grow airy and lanky. Move the buds farther from the light so the temperature of the leaf is no higher than 86
What week Do buds fatten the most?
Weeks 4-6: Buds Fatten Up
At this stage of cannabis flowering, your buds are getting bigger. They’ll still have all the white pistils sticking out, but you’ll be able to see the buds getting bigger every day.
How do you get big colas?
Topping to increase the number of colas
Topping is a form of pruning and involves pruning off the branch tip of the main cola. When you top the main cola, the energy goes to the side branches. The next two lateral branches will become the main branches. Topping will increase the overall yield of your grow.
What should my buds look like at 5 weeks?
Week 5. In week 5 of flowering, you can observe the buds all over your plant becoming thicker. You may also spot new buds growing in new places such as along the main cola. With buds abounding, your cannabis plants will get fatter every day.
Does molasses add weight to bud?
Molasses adds sugars to the plant and will help it to bud. Like us, plants need salts, nutrients, and sugars daily. Feeding your plants molasses, what could be considered the equivalent to our eating junk food sugars, will pack on the weight to your marijuana buds.
What is the best bud hardener?
General Hydroponic KoolBloom
Available as Liquid KoolBloom or Dry KoolBloom, this additive is widely regarded as the best bud hardener out there.
What week of flower Do buds grow the most?
If you grow strains with an average flowering time, the majority of bud development will occur by the 6th week of bloom. In the last two weeks, the buds will mostly be ripening and not really growing much more in size. At this point, the previously white pistils on the buds will now slowly turn amber-brown.
What happens at 7 weeks of flowering?
The biggest changes that you will witness in the seventh week of flowering is the amount of trichome production on the buds. Your buds in Week 7 will be noticeably frostier, as the plants begin to finish out. These plants are beginning to look smokable!
Is it OK to trim fan leaves during flowering?
You can remove fan leaves during flowering in much the same way you do during veg. Prune away large leaves that are overshadowing bud sites, as well as dead or dying fan leaves. One thing to keep in mind is that you should prune in intervals, giving at least a couple weeks between each session.
What week Do buds put on the most weight?
Late flowering / Ripening stage ? week 6 to harvest
In the last few weeks, buds gain the most weight. They are sticky to the touch and can be very smelly.
How do I make my buds fatter?
Light intensity
To some degree, more light translates to fatter buds and higher yields (you’ll need to pay attention to the distance between your grow light and plants or your plant may suffer from light burn). Increasing light intensity is the most effective way to fatten up buds.
What happens if you wait too long to harvest?
Waiting longer to harvest gives the trichomes ample time to develop. But the longer you wait, the more highly intoxicating and sedative your flower will become. This is especially true for indica strains, but even sativa strains can become sedating.
Why are my buds taking forever to mature? | Grow Weed Easy
Why are my buds taking forever to mature? | Grow Weed Easyby Nebula HazeTable of ContentsWhy Are My Buds Taking So Long?How to Get Buds to Mature FasterExample of Buds That Should Be Harvested Now (even if trichomes don’t look ready)Why is my plant taking so long to mature?Sometimes you’ll run into a situation where the buds of one or more of your cannabis plants don’t appear to be maturing as fast as expected, even after you’ve been in the flowering stage as long as the breeder has estimated. Why isn’t your plant ready to harvest yet, and what can you do about it?Here are some of the most common reasons your buds may be taking a long time to mature. Then, I’ll explain exactly what you need to do to speed things along so your buds ripen faster!StrainSome cannabis strains or specific plants take longer than others to finish ripening in the flowering stage, especially Sativa, Haze, and “XXL” strains. However, part of what makes these plants yield so much is the flowering stage takes a lot longer.Another thing to consider is that some strains are “lazy” and their buds don’t look ready for a long time, but then suddenly look mature almost overnight. I think of these end-heavy flowering plants as “procrastinators” 🙂 Make sure to keep a close eye on your plant if it’s taking a while because you might be surprised to look one day and realize it’s just about ready to harvest!This bud looks like it’s a long ways from harvest even though it’s been ten weeks in the flowering stage – look at all those white pistils!Here’s that same bud only seven days later. It has almost completely matured in that time, and it’s also gained significantly in weight. Nearly all the white pistils have darkened and curled in, and the trichomes have turned cloudy. I think of strains that do this last-minute spurt as “procrastinators” 🙂This impressive growth right before buds are mature is one of the reasons why you don’t want to harvest early; you could be losing out on potency and yields when you only need to wait a few more days!Unrealistic breeder expectationsWhen looking at the estimated flowering time for a strain (information you can find with nearly every strain from a trustworthy seed source), remember that most breeders start counting when first flowers appear, not after the switch to 12/12. That makes sense for outdoor growers, but indoor growers should add two weeks to the breeder’s listed time for a more accurate estimate.Even when doing that, in general, most cannabis plants take a little longer than the breeder’s recommendation to be “fully” mature. This is partially because people are more likely to buy “fast-maturing” strains. Many breeders estimate when to expect the beginning of the harvest window because slightly early-harvested buds will do the job, even if you end up with lower potency and yields.Check out our list of trustworthy breedersHeat or Light StressHigh temperatures or very bright light can cause your plant to keep putting out new waves of growth as a result of stress.If the top leaves of your plant are starting to look yellow or burned and you keep seeing the tops of your buds closest to the lights put out more and more new white pistils or foxtails, it’s a sign of possible light burn or heat burn. Heat and Light stress can both cause the plant to keep trying to make new, “fresh” calyxes that aren’t getting stressed by heat or light.If you keep seeing more and more new growth on the buds closest to the lights (especially when combined with all the top leaves being yellow), it is likely a sign of heat or light stress. Buds like this will keep getting thicker and thicker on top closest to the lights.Another example of the plant making new buds in response to heat or light stress is when you see “foxtails.” Don’t pay attention to the trichomes on this type of new growth when determining when to harvest. Make sure you’re checking the trichomes on the sides of the buds with older growth.And of course, make sure to prevent further damage until harvest by lowering your…
How to Avoid Airy And Loose Marijuana Buds
Avoid airy and loose marijuana buds When it comes to growing marijuana plants, the last thing you are going to want is light, loose, and airy buds. Dense, sticky buds dripping with THC are optimum for any marijuana grower. Generally, this type of inferior bud comes from poor lighting, hot temperatures, or lack of nutrients. Avoiding loose budsSigns of airy budsHow to fix airy budsBegin with a good strainAmount of lightNutrientsVentilationRoot healthHumiditySupplementsDrying and CuringMarijuana plant symptomsFAQ about airy buds Signs of airy buds You will easily recognize this type of bud because it appears airy and flaccid. These buds don’t mature properly, and they don’t get dense or firm up as much as normal buds. Consequently, they have less THC. If you have been growing indoors, this type of bud may be due to the plant’s proximity to the light. In outdoor grow areas it can be caused by high temperatures, especially during the flowering phase. This most often occurs in marijuana strains that flower early. Signs of airy marijuana buds Otherwise, airy buds could come from poor lighting. If your plants haven’t been receiving much light during the flowering season, their buds will likely be light and less potent. The same goes for if your plants haven’t been getting enough potassium. How to fix airy buds Basically the only way to “fix” this problem is to prevent it in the first place. There are ten essential ways to ensure that your buds don’t grow airy plants, so read carefully. Airy and Loose Buds – Image powered by Growweedeasy.com Begin with a good strain The importance of genetics can’t be stressed enough. The strain you choose will determine the appearance, smell, and taste of your marijuana plants’ buds. Strains can vary greatly and can make or break your success as a marijuana grower. If you start out with so-so genetics, no amount of work in the world is going to get you the result you so desire. It is also important to choose the right strain that works best for you. There isn’t one “best” strain that everyone should choose – it all depends on your lifestyle, climate, and growing setup. Make sure to do the research to determine what kind of genetics will get you the best end result possible. Tip: make sure to download my free Grow Bible for more information Grow with my Quick Start GuideDiscover secrets to Big YieldsAvoid common grow mistakes Indica-dominant marijuana strains generally end up with denser buds, but this is not a 100% success rate. Sativa-leaning strains end up with buds that are not so dense, but lots of growers choose them anyway because of their “cerebral daytime” high. Additionally, Sativa-leaning strains often have a high yield, meaning each bud could be extremely long rather than the typical “nugget” of indica-dominant marijuana strains. Whatever marijuana strain you choose to grow, get good results from seed to bud by buying high-quality seeds from my seed bank. Buy high-quality seeds We ship daily to all U.S. states for FREE!Our seeds are guaranteed to germinateFeminized seeds for guaranteed budConsistent heavy yieldsGet 24/7 grow support Strains can vary greatly according to the breeder. If you bought the…
Buds Not Filling Out Proper – THCFarmer
Buds Not Filling Out Proper got a nice pheno of strawberry banana last year and was really impressed by the bud size, structure and density but the past 3 runs it hasnt been looking proper. The issue looks similiar to heat stress in my opninion so i got a new mini split a few months ago and thought that would solve the problem but it doesnt seem to of helped the issue at all. I see no signs of light bleaching or burning of any sort. In canna coco with hydroton and im also using tupur. Same results. Ive tried feeding in wet/dry cycles and ive tried more of a hydro approach with keeping the medium more saturated. Doesnt help either. Cuttings come out looking great, veg looks great and so does the first couple weeks of flower. The finished buds come out super frosty as well they just last density. Im feeding with vegbloom and +life and +size. Ive also tried gavitas 600/750 and dimluxes. the lighting difference doesnt seem to make a difference either. Its day 33 temp is 76 humidity is 65 and co2 is 1000ppm Any thoughts or opinions? First pic is before and the rest of the pics are current state.
Fattening Up Your Buds For Your Best Harvest Yet
Fattening Up Your Buds For Your Best Harvest Yet | Fast Buds Contents:1. Light intensity1. a. Light spectrum2. Temperature, humidity and airflow2. a. Optimal airflow ensures the best bud density3. Nutrients3. a. Macronutrients3. b. Micronutrients3. c. Ph level3. d. Synthetic nutrients3. e. Organic nutrients3. f. Density boosting additives and supplements4. Plant training4. a. Low-stress training4. b. High-stress training5. Harvesting at the right time5. a. Stigmas5. b. Yellowing leaves5. c. State of the trichomes6. The right genetics6. a. Indica-dominant vs sativa-dominant6. b. Bud limits7. How to grow big buds?8. In conclusionThere are many variables that can determine how fat and trichome-rich your nugs will be, so in this article, we explain how to grow bigger buds during flower, what to consider, and how to avoid smaller low-producing popcorn buds. Learn best tips on how to grow huge Cannabis flowers from Sebastian Good.The quality of your flowers depends on nutrients, light, and growing conditions so make sure you have everything on point to get denser and chunkier buds.1. Light intensity Light is the most important factor when trying to get denser cannabis flowers because lights help cannabis plants produce sugars through the photosynthesis process which helps them grow, just have in mind that not any light will do, weed needs an optimal light intensity to produce big fat buds.The proper light intensity is vital if you want your marijuana plants to thrive and produce the biggest buds.Outdoor growers don’t have to worry that much because they’re growing under the sun which is the best light possible for plants, obviously, the number of light hours the plants get outdoors will influence the quality but as long as you are growing in the outdoor season you’ll be fine.Optimal wattage to get denser flowersNumber of plantsHPS wattageLED wattage1100w120w2250w200w4400w280w6600w350wIndoor growers have to choose between different light fixtures, nowadays you can easily find light bulbs and LEDs suited for every grow tent and grower, each one with its pros and cons so that’s why you should research a lot before buying expensive equipment. Either way, professional indoor growers provide approximately 1000w per m2 to have the best results, obviously, not all home growers can afford this but make sure you provide at least 100w per plant to increase bud density. Light spectrumNot only the light intensity but also the light spectrum emitted by your light will affect how dense your buds get, each wavelength in the light spectrum plays an important role in a cannabis plant’s growth process.As you may know, light bulbs (like MH and HPS) don’t emit a full-spectrum, while MH emits the blue spectrum, HPS emit the red spectrum that’s why Metal halide bulbs are used in the vegetative stage while HPS bulbs are used in the flowering stage.LEDs are the best way to provide a full spectrum for your plants to grow under.Now with LEDs you don’t have this problem because most LEDs emit almost the whole spectrum, which is crucial to harvest denser flowers because each wavelength is responsible for a certain aspect of a plant’s growth.Green/blue wavelength (490-570nm)These wavelengths are critical in the vegetative stage because growth and water absorption are boosted.Yellow wavelength (570-585nm)These wavelengths encourage plants to stretch and start budding, plants use them to encourage photoreceptors to absorb more light and get denser buds, increasing yields.Red wavelength (520-720nm) These wavelengths signal to your marijuana plant…
Why Aren't My Buds Getting Bigger? – WeedMania420
Why Aren’t My Buds Getting Bigger?If you’re like most growers, you’ll want to get the best out of your plants. It takes a lot of effort, dedication, and real good financial investment to grow weed. And you want the resulting buds to be worth their weight in gold. Airy and loose marijuana buds are good for nobody. Bigger buds hold the promise of potency and yield— the two things growers would stick their fingers in the fire for.Potency and yield. If your growing practices don’t result in these critical metrics, then you indeed have a long way to go.Bigger buds contain more resin glands, just by their sheer size. The numerous resin glands mean they have more THC and other essential compounds in their highest concentration.The higher concentration is what gives the buds their signature high. The terpenes are more pronounced, and so the aroma is more punctuated. Bigger buds give a better weed experience. Thus, if your buds aren’t getting bigger several weeks into flowering, then you sure should be worried. Cannabis buds won’t get bigger if your growing conditions aren’t favorable. Genetics, poor lighting, extreme temperatures, and poor feeding will inhibit the growth of the buds. But poor lighting is mostly the cause. Lighting is a little more complex than most growers think. Buds that just won’t grow are a plant’s outcry for you to adjust their growing conditions for normal, healthy growth.Let’s discuss in detail the reasons why your buds are not getting any bigger.Reasons Why Your Buds Are Not Getting BiggerPoor Lighting If your buds aren’t receiving enough light, they won’t grow bigger, sometimes you think the buds are well-exposed to the light, but other factors affect the quality of that light. Light intensity and color spectrum affect how the light is absorbed and utilized by the plant. Low-intensity grow lights might seem to cover the whole canopy but do not penetrate the plant, and thus insufficient.At flowering, the plant needs bright color spectrums like red, yellow, or orange. Most HPS grow lights are best for the flowering stage because they come in broad color spectrums. The intensity of the light and color spectrums determine how well your buds developMost people make the mistake of using the same low-intensity lights they use in veg in the flowering stage. Unless you can switch it from veg to bloom, adjusting light intensity accordingly, the plant will lack.The flowering stage requires the plant to hasten its photosynthetic processes because it expends the most energy in nurturing the buds. Sufficient light is essential for photosynthesis.Consider the distance between the lights and the canopy of your plants. Some grow lights like the fluorescents are less intense, and when you keep them too far, the plant’s access will be insufficient. Keep them close enough to the plant for optimum intensity, but not too close to burn the plants.RELATED READ: What Are the Best Lights for Growing Indoors?The AirflowYour grow room should have sufficient airflow. The gentle wind that flowers through the plant taxes it to grow stronger stems to support bigger buds. When airflow is lacking, the plant will grow weak stems that inhibit the plant’s structural preparedness for bigger buds.We usually talk about airflow with regards to mold and other problems that might arise when the grow room becomes a little stuffy. But the gentle wind is also instrumental in growing strong branches for bigger buds.Good airflow also means the plant is breathing fine— getting enough CO2 to fatten the buds. GeneticsThe plant’s genetics matter a lot when it comes to…
Some buds aren't filling in – Rollitup
Some buds aren’t filling in #1 Ok so first off I’ll give you the specs Strain – Chemdog System – 5 bucket hydro dwc with 2 airstones a piece Lights – 1 400w hps, 2 6500k CFL flowering, and 2 4200k veg cfl Ph – 5.4 < but always less than 6.3 PPM- currently around 1400, but usually is around 1100 - 1450MAX Ok so for some reason my buds are not filling in correctly, even on one of my biggest plants the cola is so seperated and spaced out.. Im over 40 days into flowering (43?) and I have 3 plants with partially orange pistils. Here's some pics The picture above shows the cola that is not filling in correctly or at all. These other plants seem to be much better bud wise.. Again with the first plant. I do not think i had nute lockout, or ph issues.. I really don't know whats wrong! Anyone have some insight? Thanks #2 44 days of flowering?? really?? they look more like 2 or 3 weeks'ish... that sucks for sure... did these come from seeds or clones, and if from seeds what breeder?? #3 i would get another opinion but it looks like mabye the light period was messed with and they tried to start vegging again , just my limited insight . #4 i would get another opinion but it looks like mabye the light period was messed with and they tried to start vegging again , just my limited insight . yah, this could be a possibility, never thought of it honestly.. like he said, maybe something happened to your dark period, and it got light when it wasn't supposed to, and forced it to go back into veg, which would help explain why they look the way they do.. #5 it does look like what will happen when there is consistently light during the dark period...sometimes I think other things can cause upward Like a small light leak that is the same during every cycle...not enough to stop flowering and revert to vegetative growth, but enough to get the plant to try to do both at once. Hmm...try to find where the light is coming from and just expect this one to take a little long before it is ready. #6 its a bit hard to tell from the pics but it could just be the genetics/pheno, the way the buds themselves are just growing in little clumps .. looks like the calax themselves are quite swollen and lots of pistils popping out, i have had a few plants over time that grow a very small amount of bud like this, but produce a huge amount of resin on the buds that do grow what's the development like of each individual bud, are they maturing, but just not clustering into colas ? #7 Imo you definitely have imbalance issues ... overfert andor lockout. You are using a lowish pH and a highish TDS in my not-very-authoritative opinion. But those mottled discolored clawed leaves speak of a plant just hanging on at the edge of health. I cannot give you good advice on what to do, but I would say definite imbalance of some sort. I'd keep the pH nearer 6 and the TDS at no more than 1000. Best luck! cn #8 I could see the light being an issue definitely guys; its in a tent, but near a window. Canna - It could be an imbalance, but honestly the ph usually stabalizes at (5.75 - 6.0) after the first day of replenish. Those clawed leaves seem do seem like it was a nute def forsure tho, but when I raised the hps 5 inches the health was restored on new growth. If I covered my window and controlled the darkness better would I still be able to flower these ladies to full potential (obviously for longer) or am I screwed - these were from seed and they were from...
How To Prevent Popcorn Buds From Forming On Your …
How To Prevent Popcorn Buds From Forming On Your Cannabis Plants – RQS Blog Last Chance – Back to Grow : Up to 50% Off Seeds & More Harvesting popcorn buds can be a little bit demotivating. Luckily, there are many ways to ensure your next harvest is packed with big, dense buds. Read our article for a comprehensive guide on popcorn buds, including reasons for their development, how to process and use them, and our top tips on avoiding these flower formations in your harvest. Popcorn buds are the concern of every grower—keep reading for a detailed guide on these flower formations, and on how to keep them from bringing your harvest down. Contents: What are popcorn buds? What causes popcorn buds? Will popcorn buds get you high? Processing popcorn buds at harvest What to do with popcorn buds? How to avoid popcorn buds Preventing popcorn buds outdoors Are popcorn buds bad? What Are Popcorn Buds? Popcorn buds are underdeveloped, airy buds about the size of, you guessed it, popped corn. You’ll generally find these buds towards the bottom of your plants, underneath the main canopy. There are a few main causes of popcorn buds, and they can weigh down the harvest of even really experienced growers. What Causes Popcorn Buds? Stress is the number one cause of popcorn buds. Any kind of stress, be it from poor watering, a lack or excess of nutrients, the environment, pests, plagues, or improper care, can affect a plant’s ability to grow big, dense flowers. Some of the most common stressors causing popcorn buds include: Overcrowding or Overshading An overcrowded grow room, poor spacing between plants, or bushy vegetative growth—due to the lack of pruning or training—can reduce the amount of light that a plant’s bud sites get, affecting bud growth and size. High Heat and/or Humidity Heat and humidity can encourage plants to develop airy, wispy buds in an effort to fend off mould and other pathogens/pests. Poor Watering/Feeding Cannabis plants need water and nutrients to grow and develop big, healthy flowers. Drought, overwatering, and over/underfeeding can all affect your plant’s ability to develop big, dense, and heavy flowers. Pests and Plagues Pests and plagues can wreak havoc on a plant’s ability to grow. Any pest/plague problem you run into during the late vegetative and flowering phases can drastically impact the size and weight of the buds you’ll harvest. Improper Training LST and HST techniques can massively improve the harvest potential of some plants. However, time your training poorly and you can drastically stunt your plant’s growth and its ability to develop big, fully-formed flowers. Will Popcorn Buds Get You High? While they might not look like much, popcorn buds can do a perfect job of getting you high. Just keep in mind that you’ll need more popcorn buds to fill a joint or bowl, simply because they are smaller and airier. Processing Popcorn Buds at Harvest If you’ve found yourself with a considerable amount of popcorn buds at harvest time, fear not! Here are a few tips that will help you trim and dry popcorn buds. How to Trim Popcorn Buds Trim popcorn buds like you would any regular bud. If you’re lucky enough to have had a large harvest and a lot of trimming to get through, you can opt to be less “detailed” when trimming your popcorn buds, especially if you’re planning on using them in edibles or concentrates. If you plan on smoking/vaping your popcorn buds, remember that a good trim will help ensure a better smoke because it removes excess foliage. How to Dry Popcorn Buds After trimming, you’ll want to dry your popcorn buds until their branches bend and snap easily. After that, you can throw them in curing jars. Again, if you’ve…
What To Do When Your Indoor Cannabis Won't Flower
What To Do When Your Indoor Cannabis Won’t Flower – RQS Blog Last Chance – Back to Grow : Up to 50% Off Seeds & More Your indoor plants flourished through the vegetative phase, but why aren’t they flowering yet? Several factors can underpin later or stalled flowering, from the type of strain you’re growing to the sex of your plants. Find out why your weed isn’t flowering, and some environmental tweaks you can make—from humidity to lighting—to help them along. Contents: When does the photoperiod flowering stage begin? How do you force a photoperiod plant to flower? Why do some plants take longer than others? How to know the size of your plants How long does it take for buds to appear? What happens in the first week of flower and how buds form Growing plants at the equator Why your cannabis plants aren’t flowering: are they males? When do autoflowers start flowering? How to force autoflowers to bloom How do I know when my autoflower starts budding? Does it seem like your cannabis plants should be flowering by now? Don’t worry, there are several reasons your plants are taking their time—most of them harmless! It might simply be a matter of tweaking humidity, making sure your growing tent is dark enough, or being a bit more patient. With that said, there are other more obscure reasons why you’re plant aren’t flowering. If your plants are late to bloom, keep reading to find out what to do about it. When Does The Photoperiod Flowering Stage Begin? The flowering stage begins at different times depending on the type of plant you’re growing. Photoperiod varieties, which most strains grown today are, depend on the changing of the seasons (and sunlight hours, in turn) to know when it’s time to begin the flowering stage. For this reason, simply shifting the light cycle to 12 hours on and 12 hours off will drive them to flower. But what’s the internal response like when cannabis plants notice a specific light pattern? Well, during the vegetative stage, they know to use their sunlight energy to focus on building hefty stalks, wide-spanning leaves, sturdy branches, and strong stems. When the light shifts, however, they understand it’s time to spend that same energy on developing the buds that will cover said branches and stems. Indoor growers have almost complete control of the light cycle. Instead of having to conform to the timing of the sun, they can choose to extend the vegetative phase at will. Some growers like to push the vegetative stage for months—resulting in large and mature plants when done correctly. Others prefer to kick start the flowering process prematurely, enabling smaller but more frequent harvests. How Do You Force A Photoperiod Plant To Flower? If you’re growing photoperiod plants, you have the ability to force them into the flowering phase whenever you see fit. Before you initiate the flowering stage, make sure your vegetating plants have grown enough to provide a good harvest. Bigger canopies provide more bud sites, and therefore offer better yields. When you’re ready, you only need to do one thing: alter the light period. Set your timer to run a 12/12 light cycle that mimics late summer and early autumn. This environmental shift will trick your plant and force them into reproductive mode. No Exposure to Extra Sunlight or Light Leaks Although this works most of the time, some cultivators run into some issues. First of all, you need to check that your plants aren’t receiving any excess light. Make sure lights outside of our grow tent or grow room aren’t leaking into the environment. Anything from street lights to night lights can trigger your plants and make them believe they still have time to vegetate. Mimic Their Natural Habitat If your plants are still refusing to flower, you can take things one step further to mimic the traits of autumn. Slightly reduce the temperature of your growing tent and improve ventilation to bring moisture levels down. In turn, you should shift their light hours to imitate the seasons changing, even giving them a bit less light (around 11–10 hours only) if they’re not reacting quickly enough. This environmental shift…